Exploring Puerto Rico with Kids

A family trip to Puerto Rico is very easy and provides both relaxation and adventure – with no passport required. Looking back, our favorite thing about this vacation was the variety – we could chill out on the gorgeous beach, hike in the jungle, and wander the sidewalks of the city. There is a little bit of everything to enjoy. This itinerary is based on a spring break trip in 2023 with a six and nine year old. We stayed five nights, four in Fajardo and one in Old San Juan.        

The Practical Takeaways

• With direct flights from so many cities and no passports necessary, traveling to this U.S. territory is just so convenient, especially with kids. 
• Often when you go to a Caribbean resort you don’t venture out much, except for a guided excursion or two. In Puerto Rico though there is a lot to explore on your own beyond the beach. With so many different places to see, we’d recommend renting a car. Driving here is easy and safe and it allows you to get to El Yunque National Forest and other sites at your own pace.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Fajardo: 

We stayed at the El Conquistador. The hotel is rich in history and the grounds of the hotel are stunning. The hotel had previously been owned by the Waldorf Astoria, but was severely damaged in Hurricane Maria in 2017 and then sold to a local company that has been working to restore the grounds and grand facilities.

The view from our hotel room was gorgeous, especially for the relatively reasonable price we paid for a Caribbean resort. Every room faces the water and spectacular sunsets. The pools and water slides are fantastic for kids and the calm, turquoise water at the hotel’s private island is beautiful. 

The premises are vast – a funicular takes you to the water park and the hotel lobby and hallways to the rooms feel endless. Unlike our experience in Punta Cana, this is not a resort where you can let your kids roam far. 

Unfortunately, the service and food were less than desirable. It took over an hour to check in with a line of guests waiting and one person at the front desk. Even getting a cup of coffee in the small cafe in the morning required some patience. We were happy to have rented a car so that we could try local restaurants as there was very little variety of food on site.

All this being said, we had mixed feelings about staying here. The price is definitely right for the amenities of a luxury resort with less than ideal service. Given that it is relatively new management, hopefully the hospitality will improve over time. The bottom line is that I’d recommend staying here if you come with the right expectations and have rented a car.

Old San Juan:

We wish we had stayed more than one night at Hotel El Convento. The location is perfect for exploring the City and when you’re ready to take a break from walking, the courtyard is a lovely place to take a rest. The rooftop pool is small, but provides a nice space to relax and look out at the City. I’d stay here again without any hesitation. Note: We did not have a rental car in Old San Juan. The streets are extremely narrow and parking would be challenging. I’d recommend renting a car after or before visiting Old San Juan.

ACTIVITIES

Bioluminescent Bays
There are only five places in the world to explore bioluminescent bays, and three of them are in Puerto Rico. These are bodies of water where microscopic organisms grow in quantities large enough to produce a “glow-in-the-dark” effect called bioluminescence. To see them, you kayak with a guided group in the dark to a spot where you can see a blue-green color when your paddle splashes the water. Kayaking through mangroves in the dark is a pretty cool experience. Dress to get wet – we had to walk through the water to get to the kayaks (we had not anticipated this). If you are kayaking in Fajardo, we recommend visiting Pescaito Restaurant & Bar beforehand – it was one of our favorite meals in Puerto Rico.  

El Yunque National Forest
This National Forest is rich in ecological diversity and opportunities for exploring. We visited three sites in roughly four hours, all manageable with kids. These included (in order):

Juan Diego Waterfalls: This is an iconic spot in Puerto Rico. You can walk under and through the falls (if you’re in a swimsuit). They are a very short walk from parking, so it’s not strenuous to visit.   

Mount Britton Trail & Tower: I was surprised to look back at my notes and see that this trail was only 0.8 miles each way – because of the steep pathways leading to the peak it feels much longer. Don’t let that deter you though – our kids did it without (too much) complaint and there are rest stops along the way. On the hike you are under huge palm leaves and when you reach the top you feel like you are above the clouds looking out at the beaches in the distance.

Visitor’s Center: This center was recently rebuilt after being destroyed by Hurricane Maria. There is a short orientation film, gift shops, and exhibits on the Park’s history and ecology. There are also short trails and educational programs that begin at the building. 

A few things to consider when planning to go here: 

• The weather can change pretty quickly in the Park so pack ponchos and some extra clothes, just in case. 
• Some sections of the park are very popular – we were told to go right when the park opens to avoid buses and to find parking at certain sites. This strategy worked well for us, though it meant going to the visitor’s center last. If you are going with small kids and not hiking, you may consider going to the visitor center first. 
• After our visit we enjoyed lunch in the nearby town of Rio Grande. We’d recommend eating in the back patio at Mi Vida Cafe, followed by ice cream at Sweets Temptation. We also ate at Ekeelua when driving to Fajardo – it is not far from El Yunque and has really good brunch and juices. 

Old San Juan

We only had a half day and one night in Old San Juan – there are so many restaurants and things to do that we just didn’t have time for. In the short time we had, we visited the places below and enjoyed the architecture, shops, and sidewalk activity when walking between them:

• Chocobar Cortes: We came here for a late lunch and were lucky to beat the crowds and get a table. This famous restaurant and chocolate bar celebrates all things cacao. Even the ooey gooey grilled cheese sandwich has chocolate in it!  

• The Poet’s Passage: This gallery and shop features local artists and customized gifts. It’s a great spot to pick up unique and authentic items to bring home. 
• C. de la Fortaleza: We stopped here to take a quick photo of this iconic street. If we had more time we would have visited the National Foundation for Popular Culture located here.

• San Juan Historic Site: This site includes the Castillo San Felipe del Morro, Castillo San Cristóbal, most of the city walls, the San Juan Gate and Fort San Juan de la Cruz. The exhibits inside the fortification provide the history of how San Juan established Puerto Rico as the gateway to the Spanish colonies in the New World. In addition to the education, the site provides vast and windy spaces for kite flying and running around. The kids also enjoyed the giant sunbathing iguanas. 

• Princesas Cocina Cultura: We loved this restaurant. Our walk there led us along the scenic marina and the restaurant itself is beautiful with lush vegetation throughout. We had one of our best meals here and would love to go back. Don’t skip the bread pudding with coconut and guava.  

A Few Extra Tips

• If you plan on visiting El Yunque and the Bioluminescent Bays, I’d recommend bringing water shoes. I wore these while hiking and in the kayak. 
• When we were driving to Old San Juan we experienced extremely heavy downpours of rain for 30 minutes. We were told that is a regular occurrence – quick but strong storms. Though the rain passes quickly, be prepared with some indoor activities and raincoats in case.
• If you want to experience a public beach, friends recommended Luquillo beach – we’ve heard it’s picture perfect and has many kiosks with local foods to try.
• If you are more interested in just relaxing at a beach resort, check out my Punta Cana post or Marathon, Florida.
• Want more adventure? Check out my post on national parks in New Mexico and Southwest Colorado.